To make a one-gallon batch of haskap wine, you will need:
3 lbs haskap fruit
1-¾ lbs sugar
1 tsp Yeast Nutrient
⅛ tsp Wine Tannin
1 tsp Pectic Enzyme
A handful of oak chips (to be added in secondary)
Wine yeast
Water to fill
You’ll need to gather about 3 lbs of fresh or frozen haskap fruit for a single-gallon batch of haskap wine. In addition to this, you’ll need about 1-¾ lbs of sugar or 3 lbs (1 quart) of honey if you’re making haskap mead.
Haskap berries are acidic enough on their own that you won’t need to add an acid blend. They have some tannins already so you’ll need to add just ⅛ a tsp.
As haskap berries do contain pectin, you’ll also need 1 tsp pectic enzyme to help the wine to clear.
You’ll also require a wine yeast and a small packet of yeast nutrient.
There are plenty of options available for wine yeast, depending on the style of wine you’d like to create. Some nice choices include Lalvin 71B, Zymaflore VL2, W15, Lalvin K1-V1116, Laffort F33 and Zymaflore VL1.
Know that the stronger the fermenter and higher the alcohol tolerance, the dryer your wine will be. Those with lower alcohol tolerances will produce sweeter wines.
Lalvin 71B has an alcohol tolerance of around 14% resulting in a nice sweet wine. Lalvin K1-V1116 is a stronger fermenter with an alcohol tolerance up to 18%, leading to a drier wine.
Zymaflore VL1 has an alcohol tolerance up to 14.5% while Zymaflore VL2 has an alcohol tolerance of about 15.5%. Laffort F33 and W15 both have an alcohol tolerance up to 16%.
A handful of oak chips is also recommended to give the wine more complexity (as well as improve texture and tannin profile).
Directions:
To make haskap wine, you’ll start by crushing the fruit. You can do this directly in your fermentation vessel (preferably a wide-mouth carboy) or place the fruit in a brew bag for simpler cleanup.
After placing the crushed fruit in your fermentation vessel, heat a few quarts of water on the stovetop. Add in the sugar and stir until dissolved. Pour over your crushed haskap berries and allow it to cool to room temperature.
Add the wine tannin, pectic enzyme and yeast nutrient next. The wine yeast should be added last.
Pitch the yeast by rehydrating it in a small bit of room temperature water for 10 minutes before adding. (Adding it directly to your carboy can shock the yeast.)
Add enough water to leave 2 inches of headspace in your wide-mouth carboy and seal with a water lock.
You should begin to see a nice bubbling fermentation in the next 24 to 72 hours. This is where the most active fermentation will take place.
Allow the wine to ferment in primary for about a week.
Next, siphon to a clean fermentation vessel for secondary, leaving the sediment behind and discarding the fruit. Now is when you can add in the oak chips.
Top up with water to bring the water level to the neck of the carboy and seal with a water lock. Ferment in secondary for at least 4 weeks.
If making haskap mead the time spent in secondary will be longer (anywhere from 2 to 6 months). Honey wine takes longer to ferment than regular sugar since honey is less digestible for the yeast.
Taste your wine at the end of secondary. If it seems too dry, you can always backsweeten. Rack your wine to a clean vessel before backsweetening and stabilize the wine before adding any sugar.
To stabilize, add 1 Campden tablet and ½ teaspoon potassium sorbate and wait 24 to 48 hours to ensure the yeast has died off. Add sugar in the form of a simple syrup and put it back into ferment for a week before bottling. If you’d prefer not to stabilize your wine, you can always backsweeten and put it back into ferment for longer (about a month) and bottle when all signs of fermentation have died off.
Once you’ve bottled the wine, let it age for at least a month. Wine always improves with age, so if you can wait longer, the flavor will only get better.
Ingredients
- 3 lbs haskap fruit
- 1-¾ pounds cane sugar (about 2 cups per pound)
- 1 tsp yeast nutrient
- 1 tsp pectic enzyme
- ⅛ tsp wine tannin powder
- Wine Yeast, see note
- 1 handful of oak chips
- Optional ~ Campden Tablet and Potassium Sorbate for Stabilizing (I do not use these)
- Water, to fill
Instructions
- Crush the fruit and move to your primary fermentation vessel. Place the fruit in a brew bag, if desired.
- Heat a few quarts of water on the stovetop. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve.
- Pour the water over your crushed haskap berries. Let cool to room temperature.
- Add the wine tannin, pectic enzyme and yeast nutrient.
- The wine yeast should be added last. Pitch the yeast in a small amount of room temperature water for 10 minutes before adding to the carboy.
- Fill with enough water to leave 2 inches of headspace and seal with a water lock.
- Ferment in primary for about a week.
- Siphon to a clean fermentation vessel, discarding fruit and leaving sediment behind.
- Add the oak chips to your secondary ferment.
- Top with enough water to bring the level up to the neck of the carboy and seal with a water lock.
- Ferment in secondary for at least 4 weeks. For mead, time in secondary will be longer (2 to 6 months).
- Sample the wine at the end of secondary and adjust to taste as needed. See notes for backsweetening.
- Bottle the wine and seal with wine corks.
- Let age for at least a month before drinking, preferably longer.
Borrowed from: https://practicalselfreliance.com/haskap-wine-mead/